A study on the evaluation of seam pucker in garments

Pao Yue-kong Library Electronic Theses Database

A study on the evaluation of seam pucker in garments

 

Author: Pang, Yun-tai
Title: A study on the evaluation of seam pucker in garments
Degree: M.A.
Year: 2000
Subject: Seams (Sewing)
Sewing
Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Department: Multi-disciplinary Studies
Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Pages: xii, 107, [20] leaves : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm
Language: English
InnoPac Record: http://library.polyu.edu.hk/record=b1503010
URI: http://theses.lib.polyu.edu.hk/handle/200/4629
Abstract: This project investigates the possibility of applying 2-D laser scanning technology and digital filtering techniques, for objective evaluating the seam appearance of men's shirts. Ten shirt samples were used in this study. Five were made of cotton check fabric and other five of T/C white fabric. Five seams of the shirts (Yoke seam, Armhole seam, Buttonhole placket seam, Button placket seam and Pocket seam), which are critical to the overall shirt appearance were selected for subjective and objective evaluation. In order to facilitate the subjective assessment of various shirt seams, new sets of photographic standard were established by taking reference to AATCC88B and ASTM D4231-83 and grading in the trial study. The reference standard photos included five seams (Yoke seam, Armhole seam, Buttonhole placket seam, Button placket, and Pocket seam) with 5 grades. The subjective assessment were conducted by two panel of judges, one group formed by 16 people for assessing the cotton check shirts and other group formed by 24 people for assessing the T/C white shirt. The people in both panels have some experience in the apparel industry. They assessed the seam appearance by comparing with the reference standards in the control environment. Based on one-way ANOVA Analysis, it was found that was good agreement in subjective assessment among different judges, and the subjective ratings were reliable. From the standard deviation, it was found that there was greater variation of subjective ratings of cotton check shirts then that of T/C white shirts. It is believed that colour and pattern has on adverse effect of subjective assessment. In the objective measurement, a commercial 2-D laser scanner was used to capture seam profiles. The selection of optimum scanning area and scanning interval was critical to accurate surface data capturing during laser scanning. A 2-D filter was used to remove the high "frequency" due to garment surface texture or "noise" and low "frequency" due to the natural garment surface shape when the garment was placed on a scanning table. After filtering, pucker profiles were obtained, from which two surface roughness parameters Log Ra and Log σ2 were calculated to evaluate the degree of the seam pucker. Linear regression was used to analyze the relationship between subjective ratings and the objective parameters (i.e Log Ra and Log σ2 ). The results showed that good linear correlation exist between both parameters (Log Ra and Log σ2 ) and pucker ratings of all five-type seams of both types of shirts. The correlation coefficients were marginally better for T/C shirts than for cotton check shirts. The objective measures could be influenced by the colour pattern during laser scanning. The results also showed pocket seam and armhole seams were also more difficult to evaluate objectively than yoke and placket seam. This is a first step towards objective evaluation of garment appearance in terms of seam smoothness.

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