Creation of seamless woven fashion via Jacquard technology

Pao Yue-kong Library Electronic Theses Database

Creation of seamless woven fashion via Jacquard technology


Author: Wang, Xueqin
Title: Creation of seamless woven fashion via Jacquard technology
Degree: Ph.D.
Year: 2010
Subject: Textile design
Textile fabrics -- Design
Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Department: Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Pages: xxii, 218 leaves : ill. ; 30 cm.
Language: English
InnoPac Record:
Abstract: Research on seamless or full-fashioned technologies in fashion has been gaining popularity over the last five decades. Since the 1960s, seamless knitted garments have been successfully developed with the support of advanced knitting machines and sophisticated design systems. However, immature design approaches and undeveloped biaxial manufacturing systems in the weaving field have so far constricted the development of seamless woven garments. The unitary two-dimensional design mode which have been accepted by conventional weaving systems aims at but laminar fabrics and not so much at the eventual products, and thus has not been able to fulfil the ever-growing needs of fashion today. In this research, seamless woven fashion (SWF) is proposed as a kind of hybrid of the new shapeable and layered textile structures and clothing constructions that leads to innovative results in fashion. Developments in computerised Jacquard weaving technologies, the advent of special stretch materials and new three-dimensional woven structure designs jointly offer new opportunities for SWF. Based on the forming requirements of fashion, the integrated forming design mode which includes systematic principles and realisable methods of advanced Jacquard weaving was reinvented in this research, by which the various forms of SWF were able to be designed, realised and presented in this research. The research is exploratory and practice-led in nature. The theoretical deployment of SWF and practical realisation were jointly conducted in three stages - In the first stage, based on the requirements of fashion design and the nature of Jacquard woven textile design, the crucial design issues were identified with which the theorisation of an integrated design mode for SWF was established. In the second stage, the design mode was further explored and evaluated from theory to practice in two experimentations with respect to “sectional fabrics and “forms of SWF. These two experimentations referred to the sectional and the whole constructions of SWF respectively which were the two essential components with which SWF was formed. The experimental results were critically analysed so as to identify the rules that exist between the woven design elements and the attributes of the specimens by which creative woven seamless fashion were created. Both the technical features and the aesthetical merits of the shaped woven textiles or fashion created by the new design mode were systematically revealed. In the third stage, applications of the proposed design mode were demonstrated by a series of creations, and the diversely creative effects of SWF were presented. In this stage, the validity of the integrated forming design mode of SWF was testified. The thrust of this research lies in a brand-new fusion of the knowledge of Jacquard woven textiles and fashion. The expanded creative dimensions of woven textiles contributed an added value to woven products produced by current machines. Meanwhile the new features of SWF further widened the creative scope of fashion design. It is envisaged that the knowledge yielded by this research has contributed to the future research and development of the theory and practice of design and manufacture of end products via this new weaving designs.

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