Pattern engineering for functional design of tight-fit running wear

Pao Yue-kong Library Electronic Theses Database

Pattern engineering for functional design of tight-fit running wear

 

Author: Wang, Yongjin
Title: Pattern engineering for functional design of tight-fit running wear
Degree: Ph.D.
Year: 2011
Subject: Sport clothes.
Sport clothes -- Pattern design.
Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Department: Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Pages: xxxvi, 387 p. : ill. (some col.) ; 30 cm.
Language: English
InnoPac Record: http://library.polyu.edu.hk/record=b2507315
URI: http://theses.lib.polyu.edu.hk/handle/200/6494
Abstract: When people run, their bodies have very different physical, mechanical and physiological characteristics compared with normal static state. Running wear is essential for every runner. In high-performance sportswear design, style design, material application, layer assembling, pattern construction and fit design are all important factors in determining the final performance of the garment. Numerous research studies have discussed about the relationships between the product functional performance and the use of materials, product design or construction method. The number of investigations related to clothing pattern or fit design is relatively rare. The objective of this research is to establish a comprehensive knowledge framework of pattern engineering in functional design of tight-fit running wear, and to develop a systematic dynamic pattern construction method for high-performance clothing. In this project, an integrative research study has been undertaken that involves seven parts: (1) Body measurements in static, dynamic postures and running progress; (2) Development of static block patterns with just-fit design; (3) Understanding physical properties of the human body during running; (4) Development of dynamic block patterns; (5) Investigation of the change of material properties at different stretching levels; (6) Functional evaluation of running wear of different fit designs; and (7) Development of a scientific system for functional dynamic pattern construction.
The first part of the research is a systematic anthropometric study of the human body in different motion states. Different methods have been developed for the investigation on body dimensional change in different states, such as manual tape measurement, 3D body scanning and body motion capture. In the second part, static block patterns with just-fit design have been constructed based on the findings of the previous step, and a fit evaluation method has been developed to analyse and improve the fit of the static block patterns. In the third part, experiments on the body's physical properties in running state have been carried out to examine the skin surface changes. The results have been used to determine the functional districts and structural lines design in dynamic patterns. In the fourth part, the optimal wearing ease values have been determined by analysing body measurements in static state, dynamic postures and running state. The obtained optimal wearing eases have been used in dynamic block pattern development. With dynamic block patterns and structure lines design of running wear, dynamic patterns of one-piece running wear with different tight-fit designs have been constructed. In the fifth part, the physical testing of material has been conducted to examine the basic characteristics and mechanical-physical properties of elastic knitted fabrics at different stretching levels. The influences of fabric material properties at different stretching levels on shape, thermal and moisture functions have been investigated to determine the applications of fabric material in running wear design. The final knitted patterns have been designed for one-piece running wear. In the sixth part of the research, wearing trial experiments have been carried out, subjective and objective evaluation methods have been used to investigate the effects of dynamic patterns and fit designs on the ergonomic functional performance of the running wear. Finally, a scientific method for dynamic pattern construction has been concluded. Different from traditional methods, dynamic pattern construction method can be used to develop sportswear that meets the ergonomic functional requirements of the human body in sports. This research advances the knowledge of pattern engineering and its relationship to sportswear functional performance. It provides a framework for scientific design and development of high-performance sportswear.

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