| Author: | Yan, Yishu |
| Title: | Transitional fashion via digital knitting |
| Advisors: | Jiang, Shou-xiang Kinor (ITC) Zhou, Jin-yun (ITC) |
| Degree: | Ph.D. |
| Year: | 2021 |
| Subject: | Fashion -- Environmental aspects Fashion design -- Environmental aspects Textile fabrics -- Technological innovations Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations |
| Department: | Institute of Textiles and Clothing |
| Pages: | xvii, 219 pages : color illustrations |
| Language: | English |
| Abstract: | The concept of transitional design as an evolving design thinking that derived from history precisely responds to the current pursuits of sustainable fashion in today's society. Its multi-propose, adaptive design results, and integrated design approach of textiles and clothing provide an alternative perspective for innovative fashion design of sustainability. However, a theoretical understanding and practical applications of the transitional concept in fashion have not yet been systematically established and explored in the contemporary design context, especially with the use of advanced textile technologies as the technical foundation. In this research work, a technique called transitional fashion via digital knitting (TFDK) is proposed with the aim to develop a systematic process for creating a new form of knitted fashion with improved adaptability by using digital-controlled V-bed knitting technology. Advancements in digital knitting and the integrated attributes of fashion knitwear design together present new possibilities for the realisation of TFDK. Based on the synthesis of fashion design requirements and knitted technical applications, an integrated conceptual model for TFDK is established. According to the basic design principals and potential approaches that are provided in a conceptual model, various effects of fabrics and forms for creating TFDK have been designed, produced, and investigated in this research work. The research work on TFDK is exploratory and practice-led in nature. The theoretical development and practical exploration of the topic are jointly implemented in three phases. In the first phase, the essential design issues of TFDK are identified and a conceptual model for TFDK is established correspondingly based on the requirements for transitional fashion and the components of fashion design by using digital knitting. In the second phase, two practical studies are carried out on "3D stretchable fabrics" and "adaptable forms" to create TFDK, respectively in accordance with the established conceptual model. The experiment with fabrics has developed the specific textiles for creating TFDK which constitutes the basis of this study. The experiment with forms then explores the diverse approaches to construct TFDK garments. The experimental results are critically analysed to identify changes in the relationships that dictate the design elements and the attributes of the samples. Both technical characteristics and the aesthetics of the developed 3D stretchable fabrics and adaptable forms are systematically revealed. In the third phase, a series of design applications for TFDK based on the obtained direction from previous theoretical and practical studies are demonstrated, and the creative effects of TFDK are further presented. The proposed research study offers a new design approach for innovative fashion that integrates surface design and construction design through a digital knitting process, which bridges the gap between modern knitting technology and fashion design. The design concept expands on the creative dimensions of knitting, enhances the added-value and sustainability of knitted fashion, and furthers transitional design. The design results highlight both the aesthetics and technical features of TFDK and refine the interactive relationships among textile, clothing, and body. This study also provides a sound reference and solid professional experience for technology-based design practices as well as practice-led design research. |
| Rights: | All rights reserved |
| Access: | open access |
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