Author: Liu, Jing
Title: Exploration on the application of textile-based 3D printing for fashion design
Advisors: Jiang, Shou-xiang Kinor (SFT)
Degree: Ph.D.
Year: 2024
Subject: Three-dimensional printing
Fashion design -- Technological innovations
Textile fabrics
Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Department: School of Fashion and Textiles
Pages: xxii, 195 pages : color illustrations
Language: English
Abstract: Three-dimensional (3D) printing on textile substrates is widely recognized as an effective means of enhancing the physical properties and extending the functionality of 3D printed objects by bonding rigid polymers and soft fabrics. Although the acknowledged importance and potential of textile-based 3D printing, it is imperative to highlight the remaining challenges in this field, encompassing both theoretical and practical aspects. Notably, issues often arise during the printing process due to the poor adhesion between the interfaces of the two materials. This means that usually some sort of pretreatment and/or post-treatment needs to be done on the fabric, which is one of the key focal points of this research endeavor. Meanwhile, the incorporation of fabric properties has significantly improved the wearability of 3D printed composites. However, research on the basic wearable properties of 3D printed polymers deposited on textile fabric substrates is insufficient. Thus, further study of fundamental wearable properties of such composites is necessary to determine. Furthermore, related fashion applications based on the findings of the resultant 3D printed textiles are yet to be explored.
In this project, 3D printing fashion is proposed as a novel hybrid of textile-based 3D printing technology and new fashion forms, which leads to innovative outcomes in the realm of fashion design. This practice-based research has been implemented through a theoretical deployment and practical exploration in three phases. First, the effects of using sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and acetone (C3H6O) as pretreatments to enhance the adhesion between printed polylactic acid (PLA) polymer and woven linen/polyester fabric samples are examined. The results indicate that both NaOH and C3H6O can significantly enhance the adhesive force by 49.7% and 10.2% for the linen substrate and by 95% and 17.1% for the polyester substrate respectively. As such, this project reports on an effective approach to enhance the adhesion of 3D printed PLA on woven linen and polyester fabrics as well as provide more options for pattern designs on fabric surfaces.
Secondly, PLA and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) are separately extruded onto polyester fabric. The wearable properties of the composites are examined through bending, compression, thermal conductivity, and thermography tests, which are carried out by using the KES-FB system and a thermal imager. The results indicate that the printed PLA on polyester fabric has a better washing resistance than the printed TPU on polyester fabric with a smaller reduction in the peel force after different washing cycles. The rate of decline of the printed TPU samples is 53.2%, which is more than twice that of the printed PLA samples (20.4%) after 30 washing cycles. In terms of the physical and thermal properties, the results show that the bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, compression energy, k values, and thermal insulation properties of the PLA and TPU samples are generally well-correlated with the number of printed layers. Further applications can be explored based on the results reported in this stage.
Thirdly, two fashion designs are created by using 3D printing with PLA and TPU onto polyester fabrics respectively. For one of them, geometric patterns inspired by traditional Chinese patterns are developed through the direct deposition of PLA onto polyester fabric. Then the physical and mechanical performances of the printed patterns are assessed under a microscope, along with tensile, tear, and joint motion tests. After that, two garment prototypes are created to explore the design aesthetics of the 3D printed geometric patterns. In terms of another fashion design creation, three outfits inspired by the traditional embroidery patterns of Yi nationality and braille touch for visually impaired individuals are developed. The results report on a comprehensive and practical design process for the creation of 3D printing fashion collection, which is expected to provide new insights in the textile-based 3D printing design arena.
Rights: All rights reserved
Access: open access

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