Author: Kim, Ken Ri
Title: A study on structural optimisation and colour mixing systems of digital Jacquard textile based on full-colour compound structure
Degree: Ph.D.
Year: 2014
Subject: Textile design -- Computer-aided design.
Jacquard weaving.
Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Department: Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Pages: xix, 191 leaves : illustrations (chiefly color) ; 30 cm
Language: English
Abstract: Digitalisation technology has created a novel environment for Jacquard textiles in which computerised weaving technology and digital Jacquard CAD system make the design process convenient and time for fabrication efficient. The warps in an automatic weaving loom are hired in continuous styles and consist thousands of yarns. Since each of them is hooked up in an individual heddle, replacing them every time is nearly impossible. Although weft yarns are flexible to change, applicable yarn numbers are substantially limited. Diverse textile designs are now possible to be realised in woven Jacquard forms by utilising digitalisation technology. Yet, with limited yarns, the production of highly refined designs with a great number of colours remains difficult. Creation and reproduction of Jacquard fabrics of picturesque designs rely on both colour patterns and weave structures. Since Jacquard colour creation is based on optical colour mixing, the conditions of thread colour surrounding and interlacement distribution are explored through compound structure forms to achieve refined colour representation and to maintain structural balance. Numerous derivatives of weaves are created based on basic weave forms: plan, twill, satin and sateen weave. In order to achieve natural colour presentation, the forms of shaded weaves are designated to realise continuous tones of colour shades. In Jacquard textiles, the colour systems involve the aspects of rendering colour patterns as well as assorting a filling yarn group. The classification of the primary colour alignment of colour systems is crucial in assigning individual figuring threads to floats in defined regions to emulate the projected colours. The additive and subtractive colour models used to reproduce colours are thus examined to expand weave colour gamut through juxtaposing the primary coloured yarn groups.
Jacquard textiles have been extended their application into a wide range of home furnishings and ornamentations. Yet many complicated designs are still being confined to but design concepts since intricate weave structure formations and unique features of colour realisation are still practical barriers in realising more complicated designs. It is where innovative design concepts are introduced in this study to expand the technical knowledge of the weave structure and pattern optimisation. Using the principle of establishing shaded weave structures, a new silhouette of shaded weaves is introduced. These structure formations are possible not only to generate gradual colour deviations, but also to render a distinctive textural effect on the surface of Jacquard fabrics. In addition, by applying a blurring effect in digitised colour patterns, {176}watercolour{174} effect which is originally formed when pigments defuse into each other can now be realised in woven fabrics. This study explored, examined, evaluated and identified the conditions of weave structures and colour systems for optimal colour representation of full-coloured designs with which new design concepts in Jacquard textiles are introduced. Designs previously considered difficult to be realised in Jacquard textiles are made possible in this study, which in turn has greatly expanded the creative scope, dimension and applications of Jacquard textiles.
Rights: All rights reserved
Access: open access

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