Author: Chu, Kwan Ki Vannesa
Title: Development of business shirt for man with apple body shape : the establishment of new design process model and evaluation of ergonomic ease
Advisors: Ho, Chu-po (ITC)
Au, Joe (ITC)
Lam, Jin (ITC)
Degree: Ph.D.
Year: 2019
Subject: Hong Kong Polytechnic University -- Dissertations
Shirts, Men's -- Design
Men's clothing
Department: Institute of Textiles and Clothing
Pages: xvi, 287 pages : color illustrations
Language: English
Abstract: In the fashion industry, mass customisation (MC) is a globally prevalent strategy (Piller & Muller, 2004) aiming to increase in individual target users' demands by developing customised products. Currently, universal design serves as a contemporary design paradigm to solve problems regarding evolving society and design culture that has shifted the design focus from making a higher revenue to enrich human life quality (Park et al., 2014). Moreover, the goals of clothing design with ergonomics consideration focus on end-users' demands for comfort, mobility and usability (Martins & Martins, 2012). This study proposes a new process model and design principle for functional apparel design by adopting the principles of universal design and integrating ergonomic considerations (Martins & Martins, 2012) and clothing MC in terms of personalisation, fit, and design (Ives & Piccoli, 2003; Sussman & Stankevich, 1998) to conceptualize the creation of a customised apparel product as an interface of universal design and ergonomic design practices. An empirical design case of fitted business button-down dress shirt targeting at Chinese men with an apple body shape was established to evaluate the model validity. The research design was divided into seven main stages namely, "problem recognition", "design exploration", "identification of problem structure", "establishment of design criteria", "prototype development", "evaluation of prototype", and "establishment of performance specifications". First, the aim and research gaps of this study and related design exploration were determined through literature review and market analysis. The problem structure was identified using a mixed-methods research design with in-service target garment products. Users' anthropometric profiles were developed, and market analysis of users' needs was conducted to identify specific user demands. A design brief was generated from in-depth interviews with the potential user group, participant observations (Watkins, 1995), and a new stress body area (SBA) analysis method to facilitate prototype development and evaluations. Four-dimensional (4D) pattern engineering performance specifications were established based on the results of the prototype evaluations through wearing trials involving the potential user group. The benefits of the design process model and design principle of 4D pattern engineering were systematically validated on the basis of the results of the empirical design, which served as a high-value instrument for facilitating the successful, inclusive design of customised apparel practices targeting end-users with diverse demands.
Rights: All rights reserved
Access: open access

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